I saw what I saw...and I can't forget it

There is a song that has been on repeat in my car for days now. It accurately describes my feelings these days. The artist is a young woman by the name of Sara Groves.

I have seen the ugliness of humanity - the effects of civil war, displaced people groups due to corruption or natural disaster, death and dying, abandonment, exploitation, violence, isolation, insatiable greed, destructive arrogance, struggle and oppression.

I have also seen the beauty of humanity - deep relationship, abounding kindness, love and generosity, unwaivering hope, joy in spite of circumstance, peace that surpasses understanding, inspiring compassion and undying faith.

These experiences changed my life. Along the road, they changed me. I don't know what I left behind that is of value, but I hope to pass on what I have learned from those I met on the road.



just Sheri, witness to humanity

casualty of an embargo

I thought my days of adventure were on hold because I have no International travel plans scheduled and currently reside in my homeland where everyone speaks my mother tongue. Then I get this email from the company that is supposed to ship our goods.

EMBARGO ON HOUSEHOLD GOODS TO USA

TO ALL OUR CUSTOMERS,

Dear sir or madam,

We hereby inform that with immediate effect, SAA has put an Embargo on transport of Personal Effects and Household Goods to or through USA until further notice.

USA authorities appointed this commodity of high risk.

We apologize for any inconvenience that this measure may cause in your business.

Cordialmente,

Director de Operações

What this means to us is that we aren't getting our stuff from Africa any time soon. Why? Apparently my homeland has labeled my stuff "high risk." I didn't know that muffin pans, clothes and other household effects could be so dangerous.

I hadn't heard there was an embargo issued on the country of Mozambique. So, I did a Google search to see if I could find anything related to this in order to try and predict when the "inconvenience" might be lifted. Nothing. I came up with nothing.

Adventure found a way to re-enter my life. A cross-continent move isn't enough. On all the other moves our items arrived 10 days after they were shipped, following closely behind us. Not so this time. This time we get an interesting story due to a shipping delay that became a matter of national security. I wonder if it has any ties to the earlier sanctions on Mozambique due to the kingpin law? Or is this just some other issue of national security? Things that make you go, hmmm...

Maybe I'll start a count on my blog of the number of days (at this point it has already been weeks) that it takes for our stuff to arrive...maybe.

Just Sheri, apparently a magnet for adventure

faces of maputo

Celeste, Olivia and Tania

Louisa and Constancia

Ian and Alexis "Muffin" photo pose

Sarah

the ladies

Just Sheri, blessed with friends across the globe

Learning a language means risking embarrassment

I have made great progress in being able to read and understand Portuguese. I have been reluctant to speak. The staff would speak to me in Portuguese (partially to test my knowledge), I would answer in English. Then they started challenging me - "No. Not in English. Answer in Portuguese." Somone pointed out to me that I must be a perfectionist because of my reluctance to speak Portuguese.

I was reluctant. But, partially because it took me so long to get a basic sentence constructed and things just moved faster when I spoke English to those who speak English better than I speak Portuguese.

I would hope that one day I could just wake up and be able to speak Portuguese.

My teacher and I started working on it. One hour of conversation. One hour of grammar lessons.

I forced myself past my mental barrier.

I try daily to speak a bit of Portuguese. It's coming. There is a long way to go.

Recently, I have found a couple of areas where confusion remains.

tired (cansado) and married (casado)

parents (pais) and countries (paises)

It is a very different sentence depending on pronunciation, when speaking I can't seem to remember and when listening I often confuse the two.

Ahhh, language learning. A lesson in humility.

Just Sheri, lifelong learner (now) willing to face embarrassment

a typical village greeting in rural Mozambique

I am going to miss this. Yes, I am. Only a few more days and this chapter of our lives is coming to an end. I hope to witness these types of events again in the future. I hope. I hope. I hope.

Just Sheri, you'd think I would be used to these major life changes by now (and yet I am not)

all is well that ends well...

Meet Ian and Abrantis. Less than one hour before this picture was taken, Abrantis almost drowned. No joke. It was one of the scariest moments of my life (perhaps for most of us who witnessed it).

A strong current came and quickly swept up Abrantis. Ian tried to save him but could not. Abrantis was being swept farther and farther from the shore until his head was an uncomfortable distance away and often going under. For an undetermined amount of time it was absolute chaos and panic. One of the women who was with us jumped in to the ocean and somehow managed to get to him and bring him back. I witnessed a heroic act.

When he got to shore the ordeal wasn't over. He was shaking violently - maybe from shock, maybe from hypothermia, maybe both. At one point he stopped completely and was still and unresponsive. That was even scarier than watching him float away. I did the only thing I knew to do - pray. The brave rescuer was doing the same thing. I have never prayed so earnestly for healing as I did at that moment. It felt like an eternity, it could have been only a minute, but for a series of moments there was nothing. No response to verbal commands. No movement. Someone began looking for his pulse...Then suddenly Abrantis popped up. Sitting straight up in seconds. I believe I witnessed a miracle. After a few moments of rest he was up walking around (as evidenced by the picture above).

Our weekend adventure turned a little more adventurous than I would have hoped. Thank God for a happy ending to this tale, the alternative still strikes fear in my heart.

Just Sheri, awed by the bravery of another and the goodness of God

monkey fruit

On the island called Xefina there isn't much. We saw the ruins. A handful of shanties. Some goats and chickens and not much else. There is one thing this little island is known for, a fruit I have never heard of. It is known here as the monkey fruit. Some of the folks I was with harvested some and gave me a taste.

The outside is like a green gord. Break the shell and the inside is brown, mushy slime. Frankly, it looks disguisting. I tried it anyway. I was told to take a bite and suck on the seed. I did as I was told.

The taste is unique. A cross between a banana and orange. I could see how in the heat of the Mozambican sun, the monkey fruit could be refreshing. I didn't eat more than one bite, but I do always enjoy a new experience. Xefina certainly offered that with an introduction to the monkey fruit.

Have you tried any new foods lately? Have you (or would you) try the monkey fruit?

Just Sheri, a fanatic for new experiences

bits of my weekend

Early Saturday morning a group of friends decided to go on an adventure. Our destination - the island called Xefina.  It is rich with natural beauty and quite desolate with the exception of a few shanties and the occassional visitor (like us).

Xefina island is visible from Maputo city, but it takes a boat to get there. From the beach we hired a fishing boat to transport us to our destination.

Here we are, piled in and all smiles at the start of our weekend adventure.

This little boy was also a passenger on our hired vessel. He was so cute I couldn't resist taking a photo.

This is our captain. He had a bit of trouble managing the boat at the beginning. A fellow passenger asked him in Portuguese if he knew how to operate this vessel. I think she said, "is this even your boat?" Turns out it wasn't, it is his uncle's. He was obviously a sea man in training. This fact added a bit of risk to the already planned adventure. A local pregnant momma helped this young man right the vessel and get us on our way. The depths of strength and knowledge of Mozambican women never ceases to amaze me.

When we reached the beach, as with every beach that I have seen in Mozambique, the scenery was beautiful! We set up camp ready to enjoy a wonderful Saturday of rest and relaxation.

At some point in the past this was part of a fort when colonized by the Portuguese. The ruins appeared to wash up on shore. It was fun to explore and imagine what it must have been like back in the day.

We were the only ones there as far as the eye could see.

The sounds of the ocean waves. The blue of the sea and sky. Sunshine on my skin. These are the things I will remember fondly about Mozambique...very fondly.

I hear on Saturday that some of my friends in the US experienced the first snow of this winter season. That is hard for me to imagine. Soon, that will be my reality.

What did you do this weekend?

Just Sheri, enjoying a few days of sunshine with friends before returning to cold America

no pockets: a challenge of women's clothing

As a woman I have often wondered why our clothes can be so impractical. Certain shoes and skirts make it difficult (and possibly painful) to get around. One of my pet peeves about women's clothing is the lack of pockets. What is up with that? It can be an incredible inconvenience!

This isn't just a problem in the culture I come from. It seems to be a universal problem. In Mozambique, the women usually wear long skirts called capulanas (cop-oo-lawn-a-sh). Generally, it is just a long piece of brightly colored fabric wrapped around the waste. The women in the rural areas do everything in their capulanas, including farming.

On a recent visit to one of our provinces I noticed the women had come up with a unique solution to the no pockets dilemma - where to keep their cell phone? Wrap it in the capulana. Notice the rectangular bulge around their waist.

In case you are wondering, cell phones are VERY common in rural areas of the developing world. These women solved an age old dilemma (no pockets) in order to carry their modern technology (cell phones).

Women, do you hear me on this no pockets thing? Where do you stash things when you don't want to carry a handbag?

Sheri

spring in Maputo

I left to Kenya in late September and returned to Mozambique in early October to a beautiful discovery - the Jacaranda tree. I know that I talk about the beauty of Africa a lot, but that is because that is what I see when I look around. God has blessed this continent with natural beauty (and lots of valuable minerals - but that could be a subject for another post).

I grew up in the high dessert of the USA. Why does that matter? Well, because my exposure to various tree varieties has been limited as a result. I can recognize an aspen tree or a pine tree, maybe an elm or oak. Outside of that - not much.

I grew to appreciate magnolia trees when living in the midwest, but I cannot recall ever seeing a Jacaranda before.

Our neighborhood in Maputo is lined with trees, but it has been winter here since we arrived. The leaves fell off and I've only seen sticks for a number of months. My welcome home was stunning. Purple blooms on the branches, that fall to the ground and look like a fairy tale (at least to my eye).

In case you haven't had the pleasure of seeing a Jacaranda tree before. Below is a photo that I stole from a strangers blog. This is what one looks like in full bloom. This looks nice, but a photo cannot do the color and texture justice. It is a sight!

I hear there are places in the US where Jacaranda grow. Have you seen one? Does this tree grow where you live?

Sheri

Human trafficking - unexpected demand

WARNING: this post is not for the faint of heart or young adults, some may find the content offensive. Admittedly, the topic is difficult - it has kept me up at night. It is the stuff nightmares and scary movies are made of...proceed at your own risk. Seriously.

I have posted many times about the problem of human trafficking, mostly in the context of Asia and Eastern Europe. You can read those posts here, here, here, here, and here.

Human trafficking is often tied to the sex trade. There is a documented correlation between the two.

Human trafficking can be clearly tied to forced labor...and has been for generations.

The business of trafficking in persons (TIP) in Africa takes on a completely new market demand. The drivers of the African market in persons has challenged everything I thought I knew about this issue. It has opened my eyes to a world outside my realm of experience. I am left clueless at how to respond. If there are any wise people out there who would like to provide advice - I am listening.

In Mozambique, the highest demand for humans is body parts. Often these body parts are harvested from living human beings as they are used in traditional witchcraft rituals and this method of harvesting is believed to be the most powerful. Thousands of children go missing for their organs, including their genitals (yes, even from women). I am not making this up, it is a documented reality. A shocking truth.

It may surprise you to learn that Mozambique is on the tier 2 watch list (T2W) for trafficking in persons. It is not a good rating. There is only one worse. The difference between T2W and tier 3 is whether or not the government is perceived to be making an effort to combat this social ill. Other T2W countries are Afghanistan, Russia, and Thailand.

Prosecution is high on the list of priorities for combating human trafficking in 2010. A recent case publicized in Mozambique made the news, not because of the gruesomeness of the event (it is gruesome), but rather because the perpetrators (one of them being the young man's uncle) received a penalty of 20 years for their actions (the difference in the tier rating). You can read a synopsis from the Associated Press here.

Since moving to Mozambique I have researched this topic and learned there is no internationally accepted definition of trafficking in body parts. There is no proven prevention strategy. There is little support for the survivors of these crimes and the prosecution rate is low. As with all human trafficking networks, they are vast and lucrative.

Once again I am confronted with a difficult issue and I do not know how to respond. What to do? I don't know. What is the right thing to do?

I have not talked about it before now because words escape me, yet I feel compelled to tell this story. This is my humble attempt to shine light in a dark corner of our world.

Sheri

meet Nelson

I recently posted a story of a young boy named Fred who lives on the streets of Maputo. I want to introduce you to another young man living on the streets of Maputo.

This is Nelson. Here he is posing for the photo with my friend Sarah. Sarah works with an organization that helps these boys return home. You can read her blog here.

This is Nelson with his family and neighbors. Soon he will be living with them again.

I share these photos, because the money raised by my young cousins will help Nelson return home. Their efforts will provide Nelson with clothes, blankets and other necessities as he returns home with his family. This reunion is scheduled for October 2. He will be living with his father and twin sister and plans to return to school in January, when his school fees will be paid and the organization will help with school supplies.

I am glad I was able to make the connection between Mya, Summer, Larissa and Nelson. Hope you enjoyed seeing the result of their efforts.

I don't know who said it, but I like the concept...little things can make a BIG difference!

Sheri

Capoeira - Brazilian martial arts

Mozambique was colonized by the Portuguese (hence, the language they speak). Brazil had also been colonized by the Portuguese. Beyond language there are other things these places share in common. I've been to a few African countries, Mozambique is unique among them. It has an almost Latin feel in the people and culture. On my Sunday stroll of the Maputo beach I saw something I thought only existed in Brasil - Capoeira. This is a form of martial arts that is much like a choreographed dance, with drum beats. It takes an incredible amount of strength. Here is a group performing on the Maputo beach.

Have you seen this performed? It's pretty amazing.

Sheri

beach town

I have never lived in a beach town before. This is a new experience for me. I like being able to drive next to the ocean and walk in the sand. Kenyon and I have gone down on a Saturday and played frisbee. The weather is getting warmer here...summer is coming. Maputo was a ghost town on Sunday's, not any more. The water front is BUSY! Here are just a few things I saw on a recent Sunday.

Beach volleyball

Kids swimming

my favorite view of the city...but this is the most people I have ever seen

This is something I do see often - weddings. I don't understand it. Have you been to the beach? Sand gets EVERYWHERE. Why would someone go to the beach in their wedding dress? and they always walk out in to the water on this ledge. On this particular Sunday there were four weddings. Things that make you go, hmmm...

What is your favorite thing to do at the beach? Mine is to sit and read a book. At our recent beach visit we played soccer, that was a lot of fun and a great work out due to all the running in the sand.

Sheri

b-e-a-utiful Maputo!

When we were home I realized that I had lots of pictures of Cambodia, some pictures in the field in Mozambique provinces, but nothing from the city we live in - Maputo. This is a beautiful city right on the coast and we are lucky to live here. Now, you may not like it if you have anything against ocean views, palm trees and sunshine...to me, a girl who grew up in the desert, these things are enchanting.

This is the road leading downtown. It is my favorite drive in the city. Day or night, it is wonderful. There is something calming about proximity to the ocean. In the day I like to see the waves, at night I like to see the reflection of the moon on the water. Every Sunday there are many men lined up along the edge like this with their fishing poles. I took this photo too early as there was only one. A short while later there were many, but I could not stop to take a photo so you will just have to use your imagination.

Just before the fishing spot there is a colorful tile mural with all types of pictures. It is a very fun and very unique part of the city. I like it a lot. These are birds and fish...

Palm trees and so much more...

This is one of two shopping malls. It has a coffee shop. A Portuguese book store. Some clothes and a small convenience store. Notice the street vendor outside. This stuff is hawked each day by what I call "hustlers." Many of these items were available (but for a lot more dollars) at the International Folk Art Market...another reminder of my unconventional life.

Would you like to live near the ocean or is there another location you would prefer?

Sheri

25 de Septembro

Tomorrow is Saturday, September 25. Tomorrow is my birthday.

In Mozambique, September 25 is a national holiday. In other parts of the world, outside the US, they often name streets for special occassions. We have a July 24 street in Maputo, as well as a September 25 street.

Last Sunday, I went around town with The Intern taking photos of Maputo. Why? Because when I was home I realized that I didn't have any. Without them I had no way to show family and friends the city we live in. I attempted to take a photo of one of the Av. 25 de Septembro (the last part of the word is pronounced "ooo," not "oh" because it is Portuguese, not Spanish - I still struggle with that).

Since it is Saturday, I will be off work. In the evening a group of friends and colleagues are going to the local Thai restaurant and then back to our place to celebrate.

Last year, we were living in Cambodia and I spent the day working. This year we are living in Mozambique and I will not be working (the first birthday off in a few years). Where will I be next year? Only God knows. What will I be doing? I cannot begin to predict. I continue to enjoy the journey of life - espescially because of the unpredictable twists and turns.

Sheri

living the dream

Recently, I went to the beach with friends and a few boys who live on the streets of Maputo. Street boys are a big problem in our city. They are on the streets for various reasons, but usually due to some unpleasant event at home that made them think it would be better to run away to the big city even if it meant begging for survival.

My friend Sarah works with these boys everyday - providing food, play and an opportunity to learn to read. The goal of this project is to keep them safe and hopefully reintegrate them in to a family rather than have them living on the streets. The money from my young cousins went to support this work.

During our beach trip, at each meal we would sit at the table and ask a question that each of us would answer. One of the boys is named Fred. His answers always challenged me.

What do you want to be when you grow up or what did you think you would do as a kid? Fred said (in Portuguese) that he dreams of being an Engineer. It is unusual for a kid in his circumstance to have a big dream like that as they are usually too focused on survival day-to-day. For example, the other boy with us could not answer the question. This is what I typically see from those living in difficult circumstances. But, not Fred. Fred has a big dream. I pray he keeps dreaming about a brighter future.

If money were no object, what is your eccentric dream? Me. I'd like to take flying lessons and own my own plane. Fred had a very specific dream about living in a house, with a door, and a bed, and plates with a dining table like the one we were eating at, and he would have a refrigerator with food and a car to drive. Fred's eccentric dream probably looks a lot like your daily life. It looks like mine. I pray Fred realizes that dream. I pray I never lose an appreciation for the opportunity I was given to live that dream.

How about you? What did you want to be when you were a kid? If money were no object, what is your eccentric dream?

Sheri

this is ladies night...ohh, ladies night

I recently met a new friend, Beth. I am so glad I met Beth. She welcomes us weekly in to her home for a women's Bible study. She generously gave us food during the riots. Just before that terrible event, she invited us over for a night of food and fun. I learned to play Bunko that night. I've often heard of this Bunko thing, but hadn't remembered playing before. I really enjoyed it.

This weekend, Beth had a group of ladies over to her place. We made sushi (also a new experience for me and much easier than expected). The highlight of the evening though wasn't the food. Beth had invited a few Indian women over to do henna. This is Beth getting her henna tatoo.

This was my favorite henna tattoo of the evening. One of the ladies has short hair and came up with a unique idea to have the back of her neck decorated. The end result was stunning. All I can say is "Wow!"

Sushi. Henna. Good company. What more could a girl ask for? Oh, yes. Though we were all from different places, we all spoke English. That was an added bonus and made for a wonderful night.

Did you do anything fun or interesting this weekend?

Sheri

an unwelcome new experience

Last week, while there were happy posts about birthday parties and shopping for African batiks we were living a difficult experience. What happened? Riots broke out in our city due to the rapidly rising cost of living, especially in Maputo.

It started with an announcement on Tuesday that the cost of food, water and power would be going up. In the few months we've lived here costs have been increasing consistently. Folks weren't happy. I understand their frustrations.

To some extent, I feel their pain. Maputo is the most expensive place I have ever lived. The rising costs have been difficult for us to absorb. Mozambique has a high percentage of unemployment. Even for those with jobs, the wages are often low. The decision makers seem unsympathetic. Our personal struggle with the cost of living has only increased my compassion for those with less resources.

By Tuesday evening friends started to send each other text messages, intiving one another to participate in demonstrations around town. Wednesday went from normal to chaotic very quickly as the demonstrations turned violent. The reports vary on the number dead, but everyone agrees that hundreds were injured. We heard gunfire regularly for two days. Rioting was an unwelcome new experience for me, it is one I would prefer to never experience again.

The weekend has been peaceful and even more quiet than usual. I am incredibly thankful that everyone we know is safe and unharmed. I pray the peace remains. There are rumors of more demonstrations in the coming days. I hope not. I pray for Mozambique. I pray the decision makers can come to a solution in the best interest of the people. Please join me in these prayers.

Sheri

making an interns day...

This is Olivia. She is interning with us for five months
and her birthday happened to fall in the time that she is away from family and friends.
It is on those special occassions that the distance seems the greatest.

So, we hosted a party in her honor at our apartment. (notice the bare walls I mentioned yesterday, lots of chairs, but bare walls)

 We served pizza (I mentioned earlier this week that pizza is available to us). We had three types: vegetarian, meat lovers and pepperoni.

 In lieu of cake (as this was a working day and none of us had time to bake one from scratch), we had birthday biscuits (known to American's as cookies) courtesy of a Dutch visitor.

 Does it really matter what the treat is as long as it is sweet, there are candles to blow out, and every one sings happy birthday? I don't think so. We did all of this with with enthusiasm. Kenyon even whooped and hollered at the end.

We wrapped up the night with a game of speed charades. Have you ever played? I just learned and LOVE it. This is Judith. She decided later that it was easier to stand than sit and charade.

Alexis already knew this trick. She's played before. Notice my one wall hanging in the background. I just had to point that out for the faithful readers.

At the beginning of the evening we asked Olivia what her most memorable birthday had been. She said a surprise party. I hope the next time she is asked that question she talks about the birthday she celebrated in Mozambique. Thanks to all of our new friends who helped to make this a wonderful celebration in honor of Olivia, you are welcome back any time if you just want to hang out.

Sheri