setting up house in Maputo

While we were visiting the US the wonderful Whitlock family moved back to the States for good. It is sad for us socially, but we did inherit some of their furnishings. Now that the place didn't feel quite so sterile and like we are just passing through I decided I needed to find something to hang on my bare walls. So, our first weekend back in Maputo I went with a girlfriend to the weekend market.

There are many goods to purchase - shirts and shoes, knickknacks and handbags, but I was looking for something particular. I was shopping for an African Batik. What's that?

A batik is a decorated fabric. The market has hundreds of them and lots of sellers willing to give a "special price." It was hard to choose and my special price wasn't so special so my budget could only allow for the purchase of one on this particular shopping trip.

This is the batik I selected. Why? How did I choose it? Well, it was very simple really. First, I like the colors. Second, elephants are the star of one of our fondest memories so far in Africa...remember our safari trip with the momma elephant? So, if I have to look at this everyday I wanted it to be something that made me smile. Also, when we leave here I wanted it connected with a memory of our time in Africa as I assume we will take it with us back to America.

Generally, these batik's are mounted on a wooden frame then hung on the wall like a painting. That's all well and good and can look rather nice. However, I don't have the resources (nor the connections) to get the wooden frame made and our walls are concrete so I don't have the tools to hang it. Thus, I used a very useful tool I learned in college...sticky tack. It isn't the prettiest solution, but I now have one wall in our living room that is no longer bare, though I do feel like I've regressed a good ten years.

When was the last time you hung something on the wall using sticky-tack?
 
Sheri

Adventures in Africa: Road Trip!

 Kenyon and I recently took a road trip in Mozambique. I wanted to share with you some of the photos from that adventure.

Taken from the car on my little point and shoot camera. I took this photo to show the people walking in the road. For some reason there are always people walking in the road in Africa. It is quite the obstacle and rather dangerous at night when visibility is low.

There are obstacles beyond the people. On the left is feet of dirt pile up, ready for grading someday. I am told this road has been under construction for years. There are sticks every few feet to keep people from driving on the left side of the road. You should be able to recognize what is coming at us on the right. We fit between the two, but I still wonder how.

This is another common site. People piled in the back of a pick-up. They drive like this for hours. Many commuting to places like Maputo (the city we live in) or South Africa for work.

So far, all of our road trips have been taken with the Whitlocks. Usually in their 13-passenger van - though it is often driven like it's a much smaller, more agile vehicle. I have decided we are too soft on our vehicles in the States. Vehicles in America lead a very cushy, sheltered life!

This trip, we really pushed the van to it's limits on the sandy terrain. Four wheel drive vehicles, like the one we drive, can rise above the sinking sand. The Whitlock van wasn't so lucky.

Thankfully, there was a good samaritan willing to help. He gave it the best he had and nearly burnt the clutch on his vehicle trying. In the end, they had to send a tractor to dig the van out of it's hole.

These are the events memories are made of!

dragon breath

I've had a hacking cough for something like four weeks. It drained me of energy. It made me irritable. I wanted it to end. One of my colleagues at work gave me a concoction to eat to "help with the cough." Everyone at work probably was tired of hearing it and worried it was contagious.

It was onions, garlic, lemon juice and some sugar. Wow, it was potent! I was supposed to take a bite every 30 minutes or so. It did clear up the cough, which was interesting to me. But, it had a side effect that I titled "dragon breath." I didn't want to speak with anyone as I was sure the odor coming out of my mouth was something horrific.

Home remedies, what are yours?

NOTE: the next day I also had a strange odor coming out of my skin. I guess it can act as a cough remedy and repellent - a two for one!

This is Africa (TIA): forest of palms

There is a saying that is often said when speaking of our new home - T.I.A. What does that mean? It stands for This is Africa. From time to time I will post things under this title that summarize our experiences in living in Africa.

Until I started working for my current employer, I had only been to one place in Africa. I visited Morrocco in 2002. I have now visited at least eight counrties on the continent of Africa. All of them are distinctly different.

Before coming to Africa I had visions of the Sahara Desert and animals like giraffees and lions roaming the Serengity. Those things do exist, but it is only one part of a VERY diverse landscape. This photo is from southern Mozambique.

Sahara Desert? I think not! Notice the forest of palm trees. Is this what you expect when you think "Africa?"

Adventures in Africa: Zavora beach

Recently, Kenyon and I took a road trip to Zavora beach with the Whitlocks and Henrik. At night the stars were amazing and in the day the beach was breathtaking. Here are some photos from our trip.

Sea kyakers! I am jealous. After trying sea kyaking in Cambodia I am hooked. Can't wait unitl I can do it again. It is the first water sport I've tried and really like.

Kenyon and Gabby drawing while we wait for the scuba divers to return. I sure am happy I packed an outdoor blanket and portable chairs in America. They were nice to have at the beach!

B-e-a-utiful!

Home-made toys are very popular in Africa. I think many of the creators are Engineers in the making...if only life would afford them that opportunity. This kid made a toy car out of a stick, a plastic bottle, some bottle caps and other things we would just throw away.

A common sight in Africa. Young women with a baby on their back.

What a view!

A wonderful weekend get away and one of the cleanest, nicest beaches I've ever seen.

The drive was an adventure, but the destination is a relaxing get away. I am sure this will not be our last visit to Zavora...though it will be without our travel companions, the Whitlocks. They are moving back to the US in July. We will miss them, but intend to keep in touch regardless of which side of the ocean we live on.

over lunch...

The other day over lunch the staff and I were having a conversation about cultures and the impact on worldview and attitudes. It came up that all of the staff think it is odd that my husband helps with household chores. I am told an African man would never be seen cleaning or doing laundry.

A few weeks ago I was in Kenya and a similar conversation occurred where the African men, one of them well in to his 50's, said they had never served themselves food or fetched something from the kitchen - that was women's work. They always had mothers, sisters, wives or daughters to do this for them. I asked what happens if a woman isn't home? Do they starve?

The answer was, "No. We ask the helper."

Remember, most middle class households in the developing world have hired help in their home.

African men think I should feel ashamed if my husband helps with laundry. African women think it is a great example to African men.  I heard that on TV in Mozambique they have started airing commercials about men helping with dishes, cleaning and cooking in the home - like a Public Service Announcement (PSA). I haven't seen it, because I can't understand most of what's on the television as they speak very fast Portuguese.

The lunch conversation was interesting. I am glad we have established enough trust to have such conversations.

What do you think? Should men help with household chores or is that women's work?

Interesting International Facts: Kingpin Law

Did you know?

In 1999, the US Government enacted a law known as the Kingpin Law. I'd never heard of it until recently. Essentially, the Kingpin Law is aimed at drug traffickers. It targets business interests and restricts access to the US financial system for those identified as drug traffickers. If you're interested, you can read about the designation act here. This summary states: "The Kingpin Act authorizes the President to take these actions [sanctions] when he determines that a foreign person plays a significant role in international narcotics trafficking."

Recently, President Obama gave this designation to a prominent business family in Mozambique. I found out through an email from the embassy. That was the first time I heard of this law. There were three businesses listed and an announcement that American citizens are advised against using these businesses and federal dollars (NGO dollars) are forbidden from being spent with these companies. One of them is the Maputo Shopping Center. There is a movie theatre, restaurants, a grocery store and the best electronics available at this shopping center. Basically, there are things we are looking for that we have only found available there. Since we were advised by our government to sanction these businesses, we have not returned. Which means, living in the developing world, we have further limited our access to goods and services.

I read an email today, that at least one of the businesses, a taxi company in a province we work in, is seriously struggling since the sanctions were put in place. NGO's who had contracts for drivers have looked for these services elsewhere. Losing lucrative NGO contracts was a huge loss to them financially and the taxi business is not expected to make it to the end of the year.

Will this change the actions of the drug trafficker? I don't know. What are your thoughts on sanctions?

I can tell you, from current experience, it does take some effort on this end to comply with the request of my homeland.

Haircut - Mozambique style

I think I could fill a whole photo album of pictures of Kenyon getting a haircut. There is the photo in Jamaica from our cruise vacation. That event made the top ten list for our second year wedding anniversary. He still talks about it.

Then there is the haircut in Virginia.

Since I already have a theme going, why not add to it? Here is a photo taken on my blackberry documenting Kenyon's first haircut in Mozambique. At this baber shop, they even provide a head massage. Nice!

driving in the bush!

On my recent visit to Zavala district, we were driving in sand following foot paths to find homes of beneficiaries. The driver asked me if I wanted to drive. YEAH!

So, I got behind the wheel of the manual drive land cruiser. Sand is VERY difficult to maneuver. I even got us lost once. Ha! I've always wondered how they know where they are going. I still wonder.

I don't know if they will let me behind the wheel again, but I sure had fun while doing it!

Notice the lack of a visible road in front of me - and maneuvering through trees too. Woo-hoo!

In case you didn't know - I like adventure. Yes, I do. I like adventure. How about you?

watch out! ants?

I was recently in Zavala district of Mozambique. As we went to visit a local village leader at his home, I was standing next to a tree. One of the staff said sternly - watch out! He pointed to the tree. I was thinking maybe it was poisonous in some way.

No. That was not the danger.

What danger was looming behind me? An ant colony.

In a tree? Yup! Check it out.

This is the ant colony before we started messing with it. Sort of a web of leaves on a branch.

I didn't see ants. As a result, I kept saying in disbelief - "there are ants in there. really?" So, a staff member sacrificed himself and pulled apart the leaves of another colony on the same tree. Look at them scatter!

Ants everywhere! They did the same thing they do when you plug up their sand colonies (admit it, we've all done that) - they immediately start to rebuild. Fascinating!

Just another day in Africa...

NOTE: this is a different home than the barking dog.

solar panels: everyone should have them

From time to time I see solar panels at homes around Mozambique. There is definitely sun here, but there isn't always the infrastructure for household electrical power. Generally, they use these solar panels to charge car batteries. The car batteries are used to power the television at night or a fan during summer. It is ingenious as far as I'm concerned.

I've decided I think every house should have solar panels. It just seems to make sense here...or my homestate of New Mexico. Use the power source that the good Lord gave us. I'm just sayin'...

learning Portuguese: basic greetings and confusing numbers

Why is language learning so stinkin' hard?! Well, as suspected...my background in Spanish has been helfpul in understanding what is being said, but so far it hasn't helped much in my learning to speak Portuguese as I just get more confused about which is the correct way to say things and have to pause before speaking to make sure I am planning to use the correct language.

Q: How are you?
Portuguese: Como estas? pronounced esh-ta-sh.
Spanish: Como estas? pronounces es-ta-s

Typically this is said informally as "Tu te bem?"

A: I am fine.
Portuguese: Estoy bem. Pronounced esh-toy.
Spanish: Esta bien. Pronounced like it looks.

Seems pretty easy so far, right? To give this simple answer takes me waaaaay too long! Why? Because of the whole process that has to go on in my head....WARNING: you may not want to read further as you are about to enter the abyss of my brain, and it can be scary in there!

Here's the basic process: 
What did they just say?....Ahh, they said how are you....okay, how do I answer? In Spanish it would be....so that means in Portuguese I need to use the "sh" sound....alright, here it goes....

By the time I get an answer to come out of my mouth, the poor person who asked the question has had to wait an eternity for an answer to something that is just a social greeting anyway. Sheeesh!

I am also having trouble with numbers (again). I had a struggle with numbers when attempting to learn Khmer. The other day I had a colleague laughing at me as I stuggled with the difference between two, ten and twelve...you must pronounce these out loud to hear the similarities. NOTE: I did not have them written in front of me when the problem occurred, it was an auditory only exercise (until later when she wrote them down to help a poor girl out).

Two - dois
Ten - dez
Twelve - doze

Hopefully I've got it now until the next time I am at the store and can't understand what the cashier is asking me.

Imagine what your life would be like if your daily tasks took this much effort? It's exhausting I tell you. Exhausting!

climbing a palm tree - attempt #1

I was so inpired by watching others climb palm trees I thought I ought to give it a try. I now know the secret, there are hand holds. How hard can it be? There is a palm tree in the yard of one of our provincial offices. I started with enthusiasm, kicking off my shoes, and determined to get up a few rungs. I never expecting to get to the top, but was at least hoping to make a decent attempt.

Here I go...and with an audience!

Not too far up the trunk and the wind blew. Remember the audience? It is actually all around.

Decided to try again another day, when I am more appropriately dressed. Maybe next time I will wear pants!

Any bets on how far up I might make it on attempt #2?

palm trees. sunshine. winter?

We now live in the Southern Hemisphere. What does that mean? It means it is winter here in Mozambique. We went from the heat of summer in Cambodia to the start of winter in Mozambique. The difference between the two is really just the amount of humidity we experienced - the sun just keeps on shining. I still walk around in t-shirts and sandals.

With a lack of clues like colored leaves to tell one that winter is coming - how does one know?

Without snow or sweaters - how does one define winter?

I realized recently there is a clue. It isn't in fall leaves and pumpkins. It isn't in gloves or wool. It has to do with the sun.

There are shorter days in winter. It is dark by 5:30pm, thus, it is winter. I look forward to the summer, when I can get home before dark.

Could you live without fall leaves, snow, or spring blooms?

black chicken

Premdas from India (a personal hero of mine, the pastor who married us, and the only truly great person I've ever had the pleasure of meeting) has been sick. He recently had heart surgery and is recovering, though it doesn't look like he will be returning to full time ministry. The announcement of his sickness reminded me how home sick I am for India. I must get back! I must. And soon. But how? When? I don't know...yet.

Anyway, while on a recent visit to a province in Mozambique I saw black and white chickens running around - not chickens colored like zebras, but chickens of different colors. These chickens reminded me of Premdas. Why? Because he has a saying related to black and white chickens. He would call all of the foreigners "white chickens." One time I asked him why. He explained to me that white chickens are more fragile, they melt in the sun, they require more care, they need special diets. Apparently black chickens are different.

According to Premdas, black chickens are more resilient. Survivors. Indians are black chickens.

I have learned so much from Premdas about how to be an authentic person who dedicates themselves for the benefit of others. He's been doing it for decades. I still have so much to learn from him, my Indian daddy. Today, I am grateful for the lessons in resilience and was reminded by the sight of a black chicken.

How can I train a dog to do this?

The purpose of my recent visit to Massinga district was to participate in an impact study with John's Hopkins for one of our projects. When we would enter a village our first stop was the village leaders home to ask permission to survey the residents. At this particular village the leader wasn't home when we arrived. The staff started calling out for him. Then his dog started doing this.

One of the staff explained to me he is a very intelligent dog as he is calling his master. That must have been what he was doing because once the master came. The dog stopped. Walked up to the man, tail wagging, and heeled. Impressive! The wild turkeys also decided to join in.

Just another day in Africa...

coconut water

Back in the day when I used to travel to India a few times a year I was given coconuts to drink. In fact, we were given many coconuts in a day. I wasn't a fan of this gift then. Out of courtesy for their hospitality I would take a sip (or pretend to drink it) and then on my way out of the village I would hand it off to a woman or child to bless them since I knew they would enjoy it more than I.

My attitude about coconut water has changed. I don't know how. I don't know when. But sometime during our months in Cambodia I started to really enjoy this. It became a treat. If I received a fresh coconut in a village. I drank it up. Sometimes I'd even finish off someone elses because they felt the way I used to about coconut water.

On a recent visit to Massinga district in Mozambique I was noticing all the coconuts in palm trees. I said outloud to one of the staff that I like watching the guys climb the trees for coconuts - it is amazing. This was not stated as a request, but it was taken as one. I must watch what I say outloud. It wasn't long before he asked someone to climb a tree and get a coconut for me.

Chivalry is not dead. This kind gentleman was more than happy to climb a tree for me...and obviously also liked posing for pictures too.

His brother also climbed a nearby tree to get more coconuts. Watch him go! It truly is an amazing site.

Then a third brother helped hack them up with machettes. Look at the goat watching in the background.

My wish was granted.

Mmmm...good!

My knight in barefeet even made a spoon out of coconut rind and scraped out the meat so I could eat it.

Maybe you are asking yourself how they get up those trees?

I noticed on this recent trip that at least part of the way they have carved in foot and hand holds. The rest is all skill.

Are you a fan of coconut water? I know my friend Teresa is and she has a very memorable experience from India as a result! Let me just say that too much coconut water can act as a diarrhetic. Enough said.

chicken pita

Recently, Kenyon and I went out to dinner with some new friends. We went to a restaurant called Pirata or Pirate in English. The only thing that was Pirate about this place is the sign. On the inside it was all bar and grill. I wasn't feeling very hungry so I was looking at the lighter side of the menu. In Africa, they label there menu like that. My favorite titles are small snacks (small meals) and large snacks (entrees). I saw a chicken pita and thought that sounded good. When it came I could not believe my eyes. It was HUGE! I had to take a photo. Look at how it is falling off the edge of the plate..

This pita also ended up being Kenyon's lunch the next day. It was good, but now I'll know what to order when I am hungry.

driving in Maputo

There is an organiational rule that one must wait a certain amount of time before driving after entering the country. That's all well and good, but I want FREEDOM!!! Driving is freedom.

I have been feeling like a caged animal lately. Why? Because we live at the office. I can't drive. Thus, we spend day after day in the building. There were some days when I didn't even see the outdoors. Not good.

Well, this week I started driving. Oh, happy day! However, it was like I was learning to drive all over again. I felt like I was in drivers ed because my boss had to ride along and make sure I passed the driving test.

In Mozambique, they drive on the left hand side of the road and the steering wheel is on the right (opposite from America). I found that staying in the correct lane was easier than I imagined as I just simply followed the traffic patterns. The difficulty came in managing the controls in the car. I wanted the blinker control to be the gear shift and the windshield wiper control to be the blinker control. I cannot tell you how many times I accidentally turned on the windshield wipers. Luckily, those in the car with me (my boss and husband) were gracious about my mistakes.

Now that I am a driver - Kenyon and I are going to explore the city. I can't wait! First stop, hair cut place for Kenyon. Here we go...

apartment search

Last week Kenyon and I were looking at apartments. We saw five apartments in one day. Whew! The good news is, we found one we like on the lower end of the price scale (which is still higher than we would pay for an apartment in Kansas City). I am still perplexed by the prices. Yes, I understand supply and demand theory - there is a high demand and lower supply in Maputo, which leads to high prices. I also understand that one of the consequences of this humanitarian aid enterprise is that the infusion of foreign funds brought in by foreigners (like me) can create inflated pricing structures and a "false economy." I believe the housing prices in Mozambique are a consequence of all of this...but I am still experiencing sticker shock and questioning the rational behind it all - but that is too deep for a blog post and I wanted to share a story of a lighter nature...

While looking at apartments the realtor is speaking Portuguese. Thanks to my background in Spanish I am able to understand quite a bit of what is being said in Portuguese. Now, repeating what I heard is an impossible task. So, we are at an apartment and the realtor is speaking Portuguese.

Realtor: Parking is around back and there are three parking spaces. There are four bedrooms in this apartment. Over here is the kitchen. There is a bathroom off the back for the helper. This bedroom has a private bathroom...etc.

I am translating all of this in to English for Kenyon. I must have been doing a pretty good job because the Realtor suspects nothing. He just keeps going with his presentation. Then he asks me a question I don't understand.

I say in English, "Sorry. I don't understand. I don't speak Portuguese."

He looks perplexed. He says in English, "you don't speak Portuguese?"

I respond, "No, sir, but I know some Spanish."

I have hope that I will be more conversational in Portuguese than I was able to become in Khmer. I also have hope that I may become literate in Portuguese since they use recognizeable Roman characters. I had no hope of reading the beautiful squiggly lines of Khmer - I can tell you from experience it is difficult to go through life illiterate, there is so much I missed as a result (like a much needed road sign).

We hope to move in to our new apartment this month. The language learning will take much longer.